PVCC Puma Press: April 2006

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	photo by Victoria Sutton
	The view north toward Utah is pictured, March 18, 2001, from the Navajo Bridge at Marble Canyon in Northern Arizona. The bridge offers spectacular views of the Colorado River. (AP Photo/Madge Stager)
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Living and working in a major U.S. city such as Phoenix often makes us forget that we live in a state sprawling with some of the most phenomenal displays nature can create. In Phoenix, we live only hours from a natural wonder of the world. As our license plates attest, we are in the Grand Canyon state. While most residents have probably been to the Grand Canyon, it’s unlikely that many have ventured beyond the tourist-saturated South Rim and explored the canyon formations beyond the gift shops and mule trails.

The northern borders of the Grand Canyon are unrivaled in beauty and natural history and, if you have the time, warrant a weekend trip. If you have a few days, you can also explore nearby stunning places, such as Brice Canyon and Zion National Park in Utah.

To reach the northern canyon lands of Arizona, head north on Hwy. 89 from Flagstaff toward Page. In this region, you’ll go through large expanses of flat desert and distant plateaus. Near a town called Cameron, you’ll pass signs pointing toward the Grand Canyon, but that’s not the path to take to the northern areas. Continuing on toward Page another 30 to 40 miles, you will find a turnoff for another version of Hwy. 89, called 89-alt. This road heads west toward the Kaibab Plateau. Turn off at Marble Canyon, near Lee’s Ferry.

Lee’s Ferry, which is renowned for fishing and general river outfitting, is considered the beginning of the Grand Canyon.

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	'The Vermilion Cliffs area is also home to a critically endangered animal, the California Condor.'
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Before you know it, you are crossing the mighty Colorado River on the Navajo Bridge. The evidence that you are in Canyon territory is clear. The landscape here includes towering rock formations in varying shades of red and there are plenty of small lodges, motels and taverns to enjoy if you stop here. At this point, you are about four hours from Phoenix.

Continuing past Marble Canyon and Lee’s Ferry, you notice that the rock formations get larger, and you will be staring at a 30-mile stretch of enormous plateaus called the Vermilion Cliffs. These colorful creations make you realize just how small you are and how much natural wonder Arizona holds.

The Vermilion Cliffs area is also home to a critically endangered animal, the California Condor. The condor is the largest flying bird in North America and is easily identified by size and, when in flight, by the numbers marked on its wings for wildlife agency identification. It is illegal to harass or harm these animals. If you are fortunate enough to see a condor, enjoy it from a distance.

Passing the Vermilion Cliffs, you begin a sharp ascent up to the Kaibab Plateau. This road will take you from about 4,500 feet in high desert elevation to 8,000 in about 10 miles. The road switches back and around. It is steep and hugs sheer cliffs. The landscape will change as dramatically as the elevation, and when you reach straight road again, you will be in thick coniferous forest and on your way to Jacob Lake.

Jacob Lake is a small town known for hunting and gorgeous scenery. It is unlikely that you will leave without seeing a lot of wildlife, particularly mule deer. This area is great for hiking, camping, bird watching and photography. The Jacob Lake Inn provides a good place to get some rest and has small cabins to rent. It also has a restaurant and a gas station nearby. It’s a great place to stop and rest and fuel up before continuing on. At this point, it’s about five to six hours from Phoenix.

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	photo by Victoria Sutton
	Marble Canyon features stunning vermilion cliffs (November 2006).
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Jacob Lake is the gateway for the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. To get to the North Rim from Jacob Lake, take Hwy. 67 due south. You will pass through the park entrance and visitor’s center to arrive at what feels like the top of world. There are fewer people, cars and attractions than at the South Rim. Bright Angel Point, Cape Royal Point and Point Imperial (the highest point of the Grand Canyon at 8,900 feet) will provide you with the best views of the Grand Canyon from the north. There are several marked trails for hiking, and information about camping and lodging can be found at the visitor’s center.

While this Arizona adventure requires a lot of driving, it is unforgettable and will leave you wanting to go back as soon as you arrive home. It provides unique wildlife viewing opportunities, incredible views and unpopulated opportunities for you to enjoy nature any way you want. Whether it’s extreme hiking, biking or simply relaxing on a cabin porch, the northern stretches of the Grand Canyon will leave you inspired.

Bring your camera, road atlas, hiking boots and if you can, a satellite phone. There is no phone reception through much of the journey. Some phone retailers will rent satellite phones by the day. This journey essentially takes you up to the Utah border, around the Grand Canyon and down towards it. Gas up when you can—hints of civilization are few and far between.

Those who are sensitive or prone to motion sickness should take precautions driving up and down the Kaibab Plateau. Some of the roads are very steep, have sharp turns and drastic changes in elevation over short distances. Take your time driving these stretches.

Also note that the temperatures on the North Rim can be very cold, about 10–15 degrees colder than those on the South Rim. Even in the summer months, it is advisable to have some jeans and a good sweater or light jacket. Finally, note road conditions and weather before you leave. Weather in northern Arizona can be far more dramatic than in Phoenix, and many roads are closed in the winter, including the road to the North Rim from Jacob Lake.